"As the French say, that certain "I don't know what".
- Austin Powers: The Spy Who Shagged Me
Being stranded in the French Riviera during Covid-19 lockdown was both an experience and a blessing. As the entire world slowly opened up after months of hunkering down, it gave me the chance to get to know more the region. And although Paris will always be where my heart is, I started to slowly fall for the Côte D'Azur. These are the reasons why:
1. The Villages
Pre-Covid lockdown, I arrived in Vallauris, a small town in French Riviera for an art residency program. It is known mainly for Picasso and the art of ceramics.
Waking up to a real, honest-to-goodness, authentic, non-touristy medieval old town is straight from out of my dream-book page. The number of times I had to stop myself from bursting into that Disney song by Belle in Beauty and the Beast is a daily struggle. It is quaint, it is simple living removed from cut-throat corporate anxieties, it is a different way of life.
The narrowest of streets, the daily farmers’ markets, seeing the same people pass by your window at almost the same time every day, painted window seals wherein if you reach your arms – you could almost reach through the other house. All these little intricacies that you rarely see in big city living.
The old town in Antibes with its tiny streets and random icons on their doors illustrating the profession of who must have lived there. Castellane and Moustiers Sainte-Marie with churches perched perfectly above the town. Saint Paul de Vence sitting atop a cliff overlooking the beauty of Provence providing a breathtaking vantage. Grasse with its perfumery. I could go on and on.
Since then, I visited various little villages – and although one differs from the other, they all exude this timeless charm that will always draw you in. Making you wonder what individual stories you can discover.
2. The Nature
I’ve always known that I am a walking paradox. I love to travel and yet equally love to stay indoors. Also, with the thought of contracting Covid-19, some of us have gotten a little more comfortable staying in than we normally do. And yet with the allure of the French Riviera beckoning, I slowly ventured out.
A short hike in the Estrelle mountain will give you a panoramic view of the Mediterranean. In Eze, you can stop at the Bord du Mer (seaside) and climb up to the main village at the top giving you a different vantage of this area. A trail in Cap d’Antibes allows you to take beautiful sea walk for miles.
Although I have just seen it in passing - Gorges du Verdon is apparently quite famous in this area for river rafting with stunning canyons around.
And as always, the fauna adds life and a splash of comedy to the scene. The surrounding forests in Cannes are home to wild animals. During the height of Covid, one of these wild boars started strutting around in La Croisette, the same area where normally the Cannes Film Festival takes place. And there you go, if there are no film stars, we can always have wild boars. It’s still entertainment.
If one was an avid bird watcher, they’d have the time of their life in the Airbnb in Cannes I stayed in. Seagulls, pigeons, random black/white-colored birds that I have no idea what they're called flock on my balcony. They have no fear and look at you as their designated feeder, although it's illegal to feed them. My landlady told me that she saw a couple of seagulls stole an entire pack of croissants. Well, I guess even in France, birds love their pastries.
3. The Markets
Ah, this I simply love. The fresh produce in France offers the tastiest fruits and vegetables I have ever tasted in my life. And so cheap! I once bought a 5-kilo array of mixed produce for a mere 10 Euros only. Farmers' markets are part of the French living. The bigger ones like here in Nice offer a vast display of fresh seafood, cheese, pastries and more. The one in Antibes has a different schedule in the afternoon – it offers artisan products and artworks. As an artist, I cannot get over how colorful it is.
4. The History
If you are a history buff, then there’s a lot to uncover in the French Riviera. With history ranging from even as far as the 5th century BC such as Greek influences through sailors coming in from Asia Minor. The region was also colonized by the Roman empire in the 8th century. There are still historical remains up to now such as the baths at Cimiez in Nice or the amphitheater in Frejus. With neighboring Monaco, there’s a rich history surrounding the House of Grimaldi in the French Riviera as well. Plus interesting stories about Grace Kelly.
Not to mention that during this time of Corona, the region had its share of various plagues from the Middle Ages to now.
5. The Views
Although I have slightly mentioned this in the nature part earlier, still it is worth highlighting again.
The sweeping blues of the Mediterranean anywhere in the coastal towns is a sight to behold. Especially with little colorful dots of sailboats floating on the horizon. The sparkling azure sea and sky provide a serene yet startling backdrop against the sandy hues of the coastal villages. It so calming to look at.
The surrounding canyons and the river below opening to the lakes in Verdon are jaw-dropping. Our tour guide mentioned that the word "Verdon" comes from the words “Green and water (vert and eau)” is actually that. Pristine blue-green waters against the lush trees and stony canyons around.
Being lucky enough to visit Valensole in the height of summer, no one can unsee the endless lavender fields gracing the countryside of Provence. You can actually taste the lavender in the air. Just be careful though of the thousands of bees pollinating. We managed to visit one farm wherein a stretch of sunflower blooms in the midst of lavender fields. All I could think of is - "wow, any 2-for-1-offer can never be this exciting".
6. The Food
I may be missing out since I don’t eat meat but still with fresh produce heightening the taste of whatever you prepare is what I will always appreciate.
French cuisine has always been known anywhere in the world. Living here for these past few months in the French Riviera where it has the best of France plus the influence of neighboring Italy, which equally prides itself on anything gastronomy related, eating is a must.
I have to say though that even if my Ratatouille is far from perfect, one day I will serve it as perfectly as it should be.
And I must admit, never in my wildest dreams I would wake up one day with the first thought in my head that I have to do a baguette run.
7. The People
Having worked before in a French company, I have visited Paris innumerable times. And I agree, Parisians somehow eclipsed the warmth of those who live here in the South as the generally assumed “French disposition”.
People around here are chatty, like to connect and are very welcoming. The number of times I have been asked “Vous êtes en vacance?” (Are you on holiday?), as a conversation starter - I’ve stopped counting. I speak teeny-tiny French and though at times I seem to be butchering their language, they are always vocal in appreciating when you are trying to do so.
Also, I like to smile. Yes, years of working in hospitality will teach you that. And every single time I meet someone's eye - when I smile, they smile back.
One of the artists in my residency was welcomed so much by the town we were in that she became somehow privy to the town stories in barely 2 weeks we were there.
I also met a couple of ex-pats, since the French Riviera is teeming with foreigners who settled here, and both became a beacon of light during those confusing times.
As I write this in my cozy balcony overlooking a multitude of little decorated balconies and charming roof windows up and down this bustling street in the middle of Nice, I can only be grateful for the experience I had here in French Riviera.
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